Les Contamines in summer: An idyllic alternative to the Chamonix valley

Discover Les Contamines in the magical Montjoie valley. Here you’ll find awe-inspiring walking in the Mont Blanc massif, charming alpine architecture, welcoming hospitality and playful surprises just a stone’s throw from Chamonix – but without the crowds or price tag of this better-known alpine destination.

Les Contamines had been on my wishlist ever since our first trip to the Chamonix valley in 2019. I’d fallen in love with this legendary alpine destination, where Mont Blanc dominates the skyline from every angle. But I was a little surprised (although I shouldn’t have been) at how busy it was. Chamonix, after all, is a bustling town with heaps of attractions. And the valley itself is an important transport hub with a buzzing rail network, autoroute and entrance to the Mont Blanc tunnel. So when I heard that nearby Les Contamines was where those in the know headed as a more peaceful alternative to the Chamonix valley, I was intrigued.

When we booked a stay here in summer 2023 I was full of anticipation but also a little trepidation. Les Contamines is certainly not especially well-known outside of the Savoie. What if it didn’t live up to my high expectations? What if the mountain trails didn’t pack the punches (and leave the indelible memories) of those in the Chamonix valley?

It turns out that perfection exists (and I don’t say that lightly!). If you’re keen to explore the majestic Mont Blanc massif – but want to enjoy all the pleasures of a more traditional alpine town as well – then this delightful little spot might be just what you’re looking for.

We’re not talking completely off the beaten path here. Les Contamines is one of the first staging posts on the legendary Tour de Mont-Blanc trail and only a day’s serious walk from Chamonix. But it’s free of major tourist trappings, home to many locals and packed with – dare I say it – even more things to do than Chamonix itself. It proved to be an outstanding base for adventurous walking – and relaxing. With easy access by road to much of the area around Chamonix, it’s also a fantastic starting point for exploring more of this region.

In this post I’m sharing why I think you should also consider Les Contamines as a base for your stay in the Chamonix-Mont Blanc region, what see and do in the village as well as what to do in the wider Montjoie valley. Spoiler alert: there is a lot to do. You’ll also find my recommendations for exploring further afield in the Haute Savoie.

There’s no AI here! Every post on Travels with a Saddle Bag is written by myself and based on my own travels. This post was published in March 2025 and based on my trip to Les Contamines in July 2023.

Introducing Les Contamines

Les Contamines is a small town and ski resort is nestled at the heart of the steep-sided Montjoie valley (or Val de Montjoie). This valley hugs the northern side of the Mont Blanc Massif. Whilst Chamonix sits in the valley of the river Arve, the Bon Nant that runs through Les Contamines is a smaller waterway that joins the Arve a few miles downstream. Surrounded by some of the most spectacular peaks in Europe, the Montjoie valley is both awe-inspiring and delightfully cosy. You’re in high alpine pasture here, with meadows all around and a crashing torrents of water snaking their way towards the valley bottom.

The village of Les Contamines itself was once a cluster of ancient Savoyard farming communities that ballooned into the 20th century to create a hub for skiing in the Montjoie valley. In spite of the modern development, it has managed to retain a surprising amount of charm and character. Whilst it’s peppered with ski apartments, the developments are low-key and set in attractive landscaping that makes them easy on the eye.

Why visit Les Contamines in summer?

There’s a lot of reasons to recommend this alpine paradise.

It’s stunning

And I don’t say that lightly. I’m lucky enough to have spent a lot of time in the Alps during the summer and the peaks, high valleys and alpages here are truly some of the most beautiful I’ve ever explored. Les Contamines is quite literally the end of the road in this valley, and whilst the bottom is sprinkled with streets, chalets and ski complexes, there is no major infrastructure or through traffic to disrupt the view aside from the odd ski lift.

Walking is plentiful and easy to access

We barely scratched the surface in a week. With the right map, signposting and a little alpine know-how you could walk for weeks here without getting bored. It’s ideal for those looking for intermediate level adventures – day walkers looking to cover 10-15k a day of varied mountain routes, but don’t want to get too far off the beaten path. If this sounds like you, the Montjoie valley will delight. Unlike Chamonix, there are plentiful routes starting in the village and valley bottom so you needn’t be reliant on ski lifts.

It’s easy to get to

Just a 15 minute drive from the A40 autoroute, Les Contamines has fantastic connections by road to Geneva airport and the rest of Europe by motorway. It’s also surprisingly accessible without a car. Nearby St. Gervais Les Bains has good rail connections from elsewhere in France, and regular buses serve the town.

The town centre has everything you need

For a small town, Les Contamines is well-equipped even outside of the main tourist season. A cluster of bars and restaurants, mostly serving Savoyarde and Italian cuisine, can be found along the main street, along with a small but mighty Carrefour Montagne supermarket, a few delis and an exceptional artisanal boulangerie.

It’s bustling but not busy

Whilst winter is peak here, there’s a small summer season that peaks in July and August. And it’s a ‘nice’ kind of busy. Enough going on to make the village feel alive and welcoming, but nowhere near capacity.

There’s a wide range of outdoor activities aside from walking

Road biking? Check. Outdoor swimming? Check. Family-friendly lakeside beaches? Check. Tennis? Check. Biathlon training (you never know)? Check. There is lots to do here without getting the car, making it perfect for anyone who enjoys an active trip.

There’s a huge choice of accommodation at very reasonable prices

Because Les Contamines is less busy during summer than winter, you’ll find it easy to find an apartment, chalet or cosy hotel to suit you. There’s also a large campsite at Parc du Pontets. As it’s less well-known, quality accommodation here is a tiny fraction of the price in nearby Chamonix.

The weather is usually great

One of the things I love best about summer in the Alps is the climate. It’s usually warm but not baking hot, ideal for exploring. Days in the 20s, warmer in the sun and delightful in the shade. Assume that you could have a wet day or two in the week, but this is usually balanced out by reliable sunshine the rest of the time.

How we holidayed in Les Contamines

We spent a week in Les Contamines as part of two week trip to the French Alps in July 2023 (our second week was spent in Avoriaz in the Portes du Soleil ski area). Our days mostly centred around walking in the surrounding mountains and valley but we also took trips out to St. Gervais-les-Bains and Chamonix by car. Our pace was a little slower than usual as I was in the early months of pregnancy with our little marmot, but there were still plenty of options for exploration (although cooler than usual weather meant we didn’t opt to swim outdoors on this trip). We rented a small ski apartment in Les Hameau which was an excellent base for the week.

What to do in the town of Les Contamines

There’s plenty to enjoy here without pulling on your walking boots. It meant we warmed very quickly to this pretty little town, but it also offered a refreshing change when we had finished our daytime adventures.

1. Explore the side streets

Take your time to meander around the labyrinth of quiet residential roads and hamlets that make up Les Contamines. Amongst more modern developments, discover fabulous traditional chalets, gushing torrents of water, shady patches of woodland and pockets of flower-filled pasture. There’s very little traffic away from the main road, making it a very pleasant place to explore on foot. Don’t miss the fantastic Renaissance style church.

2. Explore the waterside trail

The Bon Nant crashes it’s way down the Montjoie valley and through the centre of Les Contamines. Shady paths run alongside the river, offering a pedestrian-friendly way to get to and from the centre and cool refreshment on hot days. Engaging information boards along the way explain the geology, ecology and more recent history of the valley.

3. Enjoy drinks or dinner out

Les Contamines may not be large but it has its fair share of bars and restaurants catering to locals and visitors alike. Make the most of outdoor terraces on long, warm evenings.

4. Play!

For little ones (and bigger kids of all ages) there’s plenty to enjoy. A good children’s play area and skate park can be found right in the centre of town, and more can be found at the Parc de Loisirs du Pontet (more on that in a moment).

5. Discover the art of Samivel

You’ll find an exhibition in garden behind the church in Les Contamines, and references throughout the town, to the work of celebrated local artist Samivel. Let yourself be captivated by his atmospheric watercolours that capture the majesty of the landscapes found in this part of the Alps.

6. Shop at the market

Find local producers at the weekly market which takes place in the Place du Village on Tuesday mornings. With around a dozen stalls it’s not huge, but offers an impressive selection of local cheeses, meats, preserves and other groceries.

7. Enjoy free events

Like most French towns, Les Contamines boasts an impressive array of events during the summer months. From 14th July celebrations to tennis tournaments and trail races, there’s lots to take part in or spectate at. Visit during the last week of August and you’ll be able to watch the Ultra-Trail du Mont Blanc series of races, where the world’s best trail runners come to play. It’s awe-inspiring entertainment often accompanied by live music and other festivities.

Find out more about spectating at the Ultra-Trail du Mont Blanc in and around Chamonix.

What to do in the Montjoie valley in summer

Whilst there is plenty to enjoy in town, I suspect that, like us, you’re considering a trip here to enjoy the great outdoors. What makes Les Contamines really special, even compared to near neighbours in the French Alps, is the abundance of activities within this relatively small valley. You can easily enjoy days at a time here without heading further afield, a considerable contrast to nearby Chamonix.

1. Walk the mountain trails

It won’t surprise you that this was our favourite thing to do in Les Contamines. The walking here really is exceptional and offers much, much more than just the route of the Tour de Mont-Blanc. It’s worth exploring different parts of the valley if you want to really make the most of your stay, as each has its own unique character. Some of our favourites included;

• For easy high-altitude walking and panoramic views of Mont Blanc, head to Mont Joly. We started our walk in Hameau du Lay with a steep uphill through the forest to Chalet de l’Ètape (you can opt for a cable car for this journey), followed by meandering trails across the alpage to this peak.
• Mont Truc, at the foot of the Dômes de Miage, is carpeted in beautiful alpine meadow with staggering glacial views. A wide trail starts in La Frasse and leads you steadily uphill until you emerge above the tree-line. Lunch at the Refuge de Miage, in the restaurant or picnic area, is a truly memorable moment.
• Follow the route of the Tour de Mont-Blanc towards Lac Jovets and Col de la Balme for unspoilt pasture and wild, craggy mountain sides. This out and back route is deceptive – a short, steep climb shortly after Notre-Dame des Gorges actually leads to a gentle trail that’s comfortable for tired legs.

2. Play at the Parc de Loisirs du Pontet

Although this wildly undersells it. Sandwiched between Le Hameau and Notre-Dame des Gorges is the brilliant Parc du Pontet. At its centre, a crystal clear lake offers summer swimming and splashing, whilst the surrounding parkland offers adventurous play areas for younger visitors, tennis courts and even a biathlon training area. Situated amongst shady pines, this beach-like park hums with excitement on sunny days and is popular with locals and visitors alike.

3. Relax at Chalet de l’Ètape

On a similar note, you’ll also find a small beach, swimming lake and play area at Chalet de l’Ètape that’s perfect for young families. Take the Montjoie cable car up from Le Hameau to a enjoy a quieter spot with spectacular views.

4. Enjoy lunch at a refuge

It’s one thing walking high up in these mountains, but it’s another thing stopping for an extraordinary lunch on the mountainside. The Montjoie valley is home to more than its fair share of Refuges, or mountain hostels, thanks to its location on the route of the Tour de Mont-Blanc. Swap your packed lunch for delicious hearty, local food with an exceptional view at one of the best for a day out you won’t forget. Refuge du Miage, Refuge de Tré-la-Tête, Refuge du Nant-Borant and Refuge du Col de la Balme are amongst the most spectacularly located I have come across and serve simple yet enticing alpine menus.

5. Explore Baroque chapels

Think that the architecture in this part of France is all about alpine chalets? Think again. The Montjoie valley is home, surprisingly, to a cluster of remarkable 17th century baroque chapels. Notre-Dame de Gorges is the most acclaimed, and easy to reach on foot from Les Contamines. Architecturally impressive and spectacularly decorated, these chapels are captivating – and welcoming – spots. Find a map of the Route des Chapelles in the tourist office, ideal for exploring on two wheels.

6. Head off on two wheels

On which note, enthusiastic cyclists will find plenty to keep them occupied here. There’s good reason that nearby St. Gervais-les-Bains hosted not one but two stages of the Tour de France in 2023. Keen road cyclists can head down into the valley and explore the roads around Passy and Cluses. Alternatively, iconic climbs in the Chaine des Aravis as well as Portes du Soleil and Grand Massif ski areas are within reach for serious riders. Mountain bikers will find a fantastic selection of downhill pistes in nearby Les Houches, just over Col de Voza in the Chamonix valley.

7. Take a trip to St. Gervais-les-Bains

Lastly, don’t miss out on Les Contamines nearest neighbour. This compact spa town punches well above its weight and is well worth a visit. Restored to an exceptional standard, it’s packed with unexpected Art Nouveau delights around a large central square that often hosts events. It’s also the starting point for the Tramway du Mont Blanc, a spectacular rail journey to the highest peaks in this region. With a selection of smart cafes and restaurants, it’s a nice spot to head to for lunch or aperitifs and an evening meal. We walked here for a leisurely lunch following some of the quietest valley paths.

What to do beyond the Montjoie valley

One of the delights of the Montjoie valley being easy to access, is that it’s also surprisingly easy to reach other interesting spots in the Haute-Savoie. You’re spoiled for choice if you fancy a day out, or want to extend your stay with a few days elsewhere. With the A40 autoroute only around 15 minutes drive away, navigation is also relatively simple.

Spend a day (or more) in Chamonix

The original alpine destination. I couldn’t possibly suggest that you visit the Montjoie valley as an alternative to Chamonix without suggesting you head here as well to compare and contrast. This charming alpine town is the ideal starting point for some awe-inspiring high mountain walking. Make memories taking a gondola up the iconic Aiguille de Midi to get up close with a glacier, or simply explore the bustling town centre. Or for a shorter jaunt that packs a memorable punch, head out of town on the trail up to the unforgettable Cafe de la Floria, a mountainside refuge that’s easy to reach and offers the most incredible views of Mont Blanc and the Argentiere glacier.

Check out my walking guide to the Chamonix valley for inspiration.

Meander to Megève

A short drive from St. Gervais-les-Bains, Megève is an attractive Savoyarde village that’s also well-known as a sophisticated ski station with fabulous views of the Mont Blanc massif. Another good starting point for walks, if you’re looking for something a little different check out the spectacular natural swimming pool at nearby Combloux.

Take a trip to Cirque du Fer à Cheval

Discover stunning geology with easy walking. As the name suggests, this horseshoe-shaped valley can be found 45 minutes east of Les Contamines. I’ve been fortunate to travel extensively in the Alps and I’ve honestly never encountered anything like it. With flat, accessible paths along the valley bottom, this is a family-friendly destination where up-close encounters with waterfalls (and wildlife, if you’re lucky) and stunning views can be found around every corner.

Head to Lake Annecy

The jewel of the French Alps. I can’t recommend Annecy enough if you’ve not visited before. Spend the morning exploring the cobbled streets and lakeside parks of the old town (even better on market days) and soak up the atmosphere and gorgeous architecture over coffee or lunch. Afternoons are for being in, on or near the water. You’ll find outstanding lakeside beaches all around the lake (my top pick is Talloires, but also try Angon, St. Jorioz and Menthon St. Bernard). Alternatively potter around on a paddle board or in a kayak, or stroll through some of the surrounding villages or the refreshing shade of the Roc du Chere natural reserve.

Discover more ideas in 10 unmissable things to do around Lake Annecy.

Les Contamines travel resources

How to get to Les Contamines

Geneva airport is less than an hour and a half away. Either book a hire car here or take a private or shared transfer from the airport. If you prefer to drive from home, Les Contamines is just 15 minutes from the A40 autoroute which offers excellent connections to Geneva and Lyon for onward travel. Lastly, St. Germain-les-Bains is regularly served with long distance rail services with connections to Paris.

How to get around Les Contamines

If you’re here for outdoor adventures like us, you can easily enjoy a week here without a car. If you want to head further afield, frequent buses travel to St. Gervais-les-Bains where you can hop on a train to Chamonix.

Where to stay in Les Contamines

You’ll find a small selection of hotels in town but the majority of accommodation is self-catered ski apartments and chalets. We booked a great little apartment in Les Hameau, 10 minutes walk from the centre, through Airbnb.

What to pack for Les Contamines

Check out my guide to What to pack for the Alps in summer.

Magic in the Montjoie Valley

Les Contamines genuinely exceeded my already high expectations. The French Alps is a curious place in summer, that feels both wild and remote yet also surprisingly busy. In truth, I like a little of both, so Les Contamines fits the bill perfectly.

Away from the main tourist trail in Chamonix, the town feels peaceful and relaxed – and surprisingly unspoilt by the modern trappings of many ski resorts. There’s a warm feeling that comes from being a place people call home, and the architecture reflects a community that has lived quietly here for many centuries. But at the same time, there’s more than enough life here that cafe terraces are bustling come 5pm and mountain refuges are honeypots for hikers come noon. It’s tranquil but not too quiet.

And then, of course, there’s the landscape. The Montjoie valley is as picturesque as any in the Alps. From the exquisite alpine pastures of Mont Truc to the untamed craggy mountainsides at Col du Balme, there’s variety everywhere you look. With no busy roads or major ski lifts it really does feel different here. Out here on the mountainside you feel like the Alps are your own.

Les Contamines is a really special spot.