How to spectate at the Tour de France

The Tour de France is the largest free-to-spectate sporting event in the world, and takes over the roads and mountains of France every July. Whilst it’s an unmissable event for sports lovers, regardless of whether they follow cycling, it’s also a fantastic French cultural phenomenon that I’d recommend to anyone wanting to experience a slice of the real France.

One of my earliest holiday memories is an extraordinary one. Or very out of the ordinary at least.

I was five years old, and it was the early 1990’s. Long before the internet, smart phones and frankly, researching your holiday very much at all. We were in the French Alps heading somewhere for a day trip – although no-one recalls quite where, because we came across a road closure. In a moment of exceptional wisdom my Dad pulled over and parked up, curious to see what was happening.

Because something was definitely happening. 

A small crowd had formed along the roadside. After some time a stream of vehicles started to pass by. Some were cars but others were clearly promotional vehicles, decked out in adverts, slogans and frankly, young people – many of whom seemed to be there to distribute freebies of one kind or another. To a five year old this seemed very exciting and a promotional hat and newspapers were swiftly gathered. This pantomime of curiosity lasted for some indefinite period. Maybe minutes, possibly hours. And then all of sudden, whoosh. In a flash an enormous gaggle of cyclists sped past at what felt like a million miles an hour. And then suddenly everyone floated apart, strolled away from the roadside, and normality resumed.

This was my first encounter with the Tour de France, and some of the biggest names in the world of cycling.

Fast-forward 30 years(!) or so, and I now realise that this was the moment that sparked an enduring fascination with the world of professional cycling. Back then we were limited to just a half-hour daily bulletin on TV during the Tour de France in the UK, but our family doggedly watched each night, captivated by this sporting event quite unlike any other. By the time Mr Saddle Bag came into my life, cycling was blossoming in the UK thanks to the success of the 2012 Olympic cycling team and the burgeoning career of Mark Cavendish. And somehow I’d met someone else who was equally interested in this (somewhat niche) sport and delighted in watching endless hours of TV coverage that was at last available.

But I digress. In short, I’ve been a little bit in love with the Tour de France ever since that first day. However this post is very much still for you even if you’ve never followed the sport of cycling or would never usually consider spectating at a sporting event on holiday. I could wax lyrical about why pro-cycling might interest you but I think it’s much more interesting to share the cultural phenomenon that is Le Tour – and why you should consider adding it to your French holiday itinerary.

If you want to find out more about what the Tour de France actually is, why spectating at it is an unmissable addition to any trip, how to spectate and a little about our most recent experience in Morzine in 2023, then read on.

The Tour de France: A brief introduction to a big event

The Tour de France is the most prestigious professional cycling event in the world. With riders completing over 3,000km racing over a three week period, it’s the oldest of three ‘Grand tours’ – three week long races. A field of almost 200 of the world’s best cyclists compete as both individuals and teams across 21 stages ranging from short time-trial events to arduous alpine stages taking in hundreds of kilometers of climbing. As well as being an incredible endurance event, road cycling is immensely tactical with riders competing for stage wins, team prizes and competitions for the best performance on sprint (flat) and climbing sections of the course. This makes it endlessly interesting to watch. The Tour traditionally takes place during the month of July and whilst it can start anywhere in France (and sometimes elsewhere in Europe) it almost always concludes with an iconic sprint along the Champs Elysée in Paris.

The Tour de France Femmes (women’s Tour) starts a few weeks later and is a little shorter – currently comprising 8 or 9 stages. This offers a fantastic alternative opportunity to catch the quality professional racing with all the same excitement, cultural events and media coverage.

It’s estimated that over a million people spectate at the Tour de France each year, with a rapid growing audience at the Tour de France Femmes too. This makes it the largest free-to-view sporting event in the world, and something truly extraordinary to be a part of.

Where to spectate at the Tour de France

The full route of the Tour de France is usually announced in October on letour.fr, giving you almost a year to plan ahead. A detailed route map is shared that gives you everything you’ll need to know.

With this in mind, you’ll next want to decide where to spectate. If you already have travel plans in place, you might simply want to find the nearest spot to you – knowing that wherever this is (regardless of how obscure a destination or roadside) there will be a great atmosphere. But if you’re choosing a location specifically to watch the Tour, there are several options to consider. Each offers a unique experience.

Start town of a stage

The riders and their entourage gather here on the morning of the race day. You won’t see much action as the flag doesn’t actually drop for racing to begin until riders are several kilometers out of town, but it’s a great place for enthusiasts who want to watch riders signing on for the day and warming up. You can also see all the support teams and some of the media crew, offering a great insight into how the logistics of professional cycling operate. Good friends watched a stage start in their hometown in 2024 and loved that the riders rolling out slowly giving them a great view of the whole peleton.

Finish town of a stage

Naturally, the finish line is a hot ticket for spectators (although, like everywhere else no ticket is required). As well as the possibility of watching the crucial final moments of the stage, you can also check out the podium presentations after the day’s racing and soak up all the team set-ups, cool-down areas and the media circus. As you’ll find the major broadcasters here it can be an opportunity to spot your favourite presenters, pundits and reporters (or Bernard Hinault at least).

The final finish line on the Champs Elysee in Paris offers a particular special experience – the race concludes with repeated loops here so spectators get the chance to see the finishers multiple times.

On a mountain climb

My favourite experience. The big mountain climbs of the Tour are legendary – places where extraordinary sporting battles and achievements play out, and heroes and villains crowned. As racing naturally slows down on climbs, you literally get more spectating time so it’s easier to pick out your favourite riders and make sense of what’s going on in the race. Anywhere on a climb is worth spectating, but the key battlegrounds at Cols (where riders crest the mountain) are particularly special. I was fortunate enough to watch Tadej Pogacar and Jonas Vingegaard fight for the line at the Col du Joux Plane in 2023 – it was breathtaking viewing just a few metres from these iconic riders.

At an intermediate sprint

The sprinter’s jersey isn’t just fought for at the finish line, it’s also contested at intermediate sprints throughout the day where riders can win additional points. It’s not always the most exciting riding but it’s another location with a celebratory atmosphere.

On a time-trial course

One or two time trials usually take place during the three week event, and they offer an unique opportunity to watch the race all day long. Instead of racing in a pack or ‘peleton’, riders tackle a shorter course one-by-one aiming to record the fastest possible time. Riders set off one at a time giving spectators the chance to see all the competitors over the course of an afternoon. For keen cycling fans, it’s non-stop entertainment and a chance to soak up seeing your favourite riders up close.

Once you know where you want to spectate

This is where local knowledge is key. As the race traverses 3,000km plus kilometers of road, you’ll need to do a little research to understand how to make the most of the experience (and how to manage the logistics) of spectating in your chosen spot.

I’ve found local tourist information and social media to be the best place to find the detailed information you need. Check out the social accounts and website for the nearest town or tourist information office, plus other authoritative sources such as local sports clubs. These should give you details of road closures, additional festivities on the day (not to be missed), parking and more.

Spectating at the Tour de France on the day

Activity kicks off early on the day of the race, with road closures enforced from dawn if you’re close to the start. Plan your travel in advance and give yourself time for delays – and to be delighted and distracted by the circus that surrounds the tour.

Aim to be at your spectating location several hours before the riders arrive (you’ll find estimated times online). This gives you ample time to enjoy the atmosphere, watch the promotional ‘caravan’ sweep through as well as all the logistical vehicles and media ahead of the actual race. If you’re in a busy spot – such as a start, finish or mountain climb you’ll likely find hugely entertaining crowds and potentially bars, barbecues and more.

That said, be prepared. It’s impossible to turn roadsides into a sporting stadium. Pack a picnic and plenty of water for the day (and a few beers if you’re so inclined – they’ll need to be zero alcohol though if you plan to drive in France after). You likely won’t have access to any facilities either – so go before you go or be prepared to go in the wild (respectfully, of course). Sunscreen and waterproofs may well be needed too – and crucially, any supporting paraphernalia. Signs, flags, cowbells (seemingly obligatory at any French sporting event) and even musical instruments are very much part of the fun. 

Not to put a dampener on things, but organisers have been at pains to communicate guidelines for spectators over the past few years – and for good reason. This is an open road race and fans can get really close to action. High profile accidents have happened over the years and it’s hugely important as a spectator to keep clear of the road – and make sure any children and pets with you are safely away from the tarmac. Have an amazing time, but remember that the road is a racetrack and you have a responsibility to help the riders stay safe.

Most of all though, enjoy yourself. Give yourself all day. Resist the temptation to watch the spectacle through your camera’s screen. Chat to your fellow spectators – even if you don’t have much language in common. Grab an obligatory free t-shirt or hat. Feel inspired. Soak up the moment.

Our experience at the 2023 Tour de France in Morzine

We spent part of our July 2023 trip to the Haute-Savoie region of France in the alpine resort of Avoriaz for one particular reason – to watch the Tour. It was our first time spectating at the Tour together, and our first time watching a cycle race on an alpine climb.

Discover more about why you should head to Avoriaz in summer.

The plan was to head to the Col de Joux Plane, the last big climb on a stage set to finish in the nearby ski resort town of Morzine. Riders were due to arrive in the late afternoon, but like many others we headed into Morzine bright and early to explore the circus that surrounds the finish line. There was heaps going on; finish gantries being set-up, railings assembled to keep spectators (and riders) safe on the sprint to the line, media trucks everywhere (although disappointingly we didn’t spot any of our favourite pundits about) and entertainments and promotional events going on everywhere. The cafe terraces were heaving. We stopped for a coffee, before eventually taking a short stroll to our cable car.

Like many alpine resorts hosting this and similar events, cable cars (ski lifts) were open with extended hours and capacity. Whilst we had to queue, we were eventually whisked up towards the Pointe Nyon ready for the next stage of our adventure – a hike to the Col. A few kilometres of gentle uphill trail took us towards our goal, along with hundreds of others (although on a mountainside it did not feel like that). All of a sudden the small path crossed a ridge, and there below us was the defining point in the day’s race. 

It was honestly like nothing else I’d ever experienced. The final kilometer of the climb sweeps around the mountainside in a wide arc creating a natural amphitheatre that was full of spectators, bikes, campervans and more. There was a buvette, or small bar, hosted by the local ski club serving snacks and drinks, tents and vans hinting at where some had camped for days to claim a spot and inexplicably the Matej Mohoric fan club. And the mountain was throbbing with anticipation.

The next few hours flew past. If people watching is your sport, this is the place to come. Watching the crowd grow, especially as enthusiastic fans arrived at the Col on their bikes from the valley below was enough to entertain us. But most of all, it was a joy to be surrounded by people of every age and background talking about cycling – all with the extraordinary backdrop of Mont Blanc beyond.

Energy built as the first vehicles started to arrive – the media cars, team cars and ultimately the wild publicity caravan. Watching hundreds of people surge in excitement at the prospect of a free sausage (yes, really) or supermarket t-shirt (if you know, you know) is quite like nothing else.

And then, the calm before the storm. A brief moment of quiet on the road, knowing that a thrilling battle will be playing itself out on the road below (don’t count on 3G coverage to keep on top of the race here). Suddenly, the TV helicopters rise into view and you can hear the crowd further down the mountain. You can literally see the crowd swell as the first riders emerge ahead of you. And then they were here – Tadej Pogacar and Jonas Vingegaard fighting for the bonus points at the Col just a few meters from me. Two of the greatest rivals in modern cycling locking eyes with one another. 

And then, the peleton. The racing had been brutal that day. First a few chasers in dribs and drabs, then the larger groups supporting one another home. We cheered – endless shouts of “allez, allez, allez!” and elbowed one another every time one of our cycling heroes rode past. At last, the excitement subsided, spectators started drifting homewards. We ended up walking all the way back down into Morzine that evening, where thankfully buses and lifts back to Avoriaz stayed open late (unadvertised) to ferry people home. Finally a deep breath, and time to find out the full picture – a spectacular attack by Carlos Rodriguez on the descent into Morzine completely shook up the day’s result. Proof that nothing is predictable in this superhuman sport.

The Tour de France: An unmissable phenomenon

I could talk all day about how the cuisine, architecture and wine-making heritage defines French culture. But we’d be missing something crucial. It’s also a nation of sports fanatics, as well as host to some of Europe’s most spectacular sporting events. An opportunity to spectate at some of many that take place outside of a stadium is a superlative way to experience Real France. Whether it’s the Tour, one of a myriad of other major cycle races, Paris city marathon or the extraordinary Ultra-Trail de Mont-Blanc, you’ll not only get to see some of the world’s most remarkable athletes close up but also experience the sheer joy and enthusiasm of the people of France.

If you’re planning a trip to France during the summer, I cannot recommend taking a trip to the Tour enough. It’s quite unlike anything else – and I’ll be back.