The Three Valleys: An essential guide to the world’s largest ski area

Les 3 Vallées ski area isn’t just the largest in the French Alps, it’s the largest in the world. Connecting the world-class resorts of Courchevel, Meribel and Val Thorens, it’s a paradise for skiers and boarders. Discover some of the best places to explore on and off the piste, and as well as my favourite après and viewpoints, in my ski guide to the Three Valleys.

Courchevel. Meribel. Val Thorens. Three iconic ski resorts.

Whilst each is different and hugely desirable in their own way, there’s one thing that unites them and makes them extra-special. The three resorts are part of one huge ski area: Les 3 Vallées, or the Three Valleys. 600km of outstanding piste and extraordinary mountainside, all on one lift pass.

Being able to traverse the world’s largest ski area from your doorstep never fails to make my heart sing. Add into the equation some breathtakingly beautiful landscapes, extensive high-altitude and snow-sure skiing and a pinch of French alpine charm and you might just find yourself falling in love with this remarkable area, like me.

I’ve skied the Three Valleys several times – both as a novice and as a more experienced skier. Most recently I’ve spent a week in La Tania, close to Courchevel, discovering new pistes and places. Whilst I usually love visiting new places, the Three Valleys is one of those exceptions to the rule. It’s a ski area you’ll never tire of, as there’s endless ways to spend your day on the pistes.

In this guide, I’m sharing my experience of this ski area and the three main resorts. I’ll introduce you to the area, the lift pass options and share why I think you’ll want to book your trip here. Then I’ll break down, resort by resort, what you need to know as well as where to find the best pistes, après-ski and views (Spoiler alert: there are some incredible spots in Les 3 Vallées). Shall we get started?

There’s no AI here! Every post on Travels with a Saddle Bag is written by myself and based on my own travels. This post was written in February 2019 and last updated in January 2025, based on my visits to the Three Valleys in 2011 and 2019.

An introduction to Les 3 Vallées

Les 3 Vallées is located in the Savoie region of France. Better known to Brits by its English name – the Three Valleys – it has operated as a linked ski area since 1973. As the name suggests, geographically it covers three large alpine valleys.

A major resort town calls each valley home. Courchevel, alongside the villages of La Tania and La Praz, can be found towards the north of the ski area in the Saint-Bon valley. With a reputation for decadence, it’s a glitzy town that attracts Europe’s rich and famous. You’ll find glamorous restaurants, clubs and boutiques clustered at the foot of the pistes here, but there’s also exceptional runs to explore and panoramic views of Mont Blanc.

In the middle of Les 3 Vallées, you’ll find Meribel in the Allues valley. At a slightly lower altitude than most of the accommodation in this ski area, the twin resort towns of Meribel-Mottaret and Meribel-Centre have a traditional charm that’s a little different to their neighbours. The pine-clad architecture and wooded lower slopes, often frosted with snow, give the resort a cosy feel.

The most southerly part of the ski area is the Belleville valley. Here you’ll find two major resort towns – Val Thorens, and its little brother, Les Menuires. At 2,300m, Val Thorens has a formidable reputation as one of the most snow-sure resorts in the Alps, and one of the most fun (I’ll share why later).

The Three Valleys lift pass

There’s a few things to note if you’re skiing or boarding in Les 3 Vallées. The whole ski area is covered by one Three Valleys pass. But there are also local passes available separately for Courchevel, Meribel and Val Thorens. This is worth knowing if you’re only heading here for a few days, have little ones skiing with you or you’re new to snowsports. Each of the local passes cover at least 150km of piste, so they’re fairly formidable in their own right.

If you’re not planning to cover the whole ski area, consider investing in a local pass to save a pretty penny. But if you’re keen to explore – go right ahead and get the full pass. It’s incredible value for so many kilometres of piste.

Check out full details of Les 3 Vallées lift passes here.

Top tip: Want to save money on your pass? Look for early-bird deals with tour operators that offer buy-one-get-one-free or buy-one-get-one-half-price deals when you book ahead. We have been able to book two-for-one deals with Crystal Ski in the past that have helped us make big savings.

Why you’ll want to ski in the Three Valleys

I’ll keep this short and simple – there are some seriously good reasons to come and ski in the Three Valleys;

• You can ski the world’s largest ski area. Enough said.
• Between Courchevel, Meribel and Val Thorens you have an excellent choice of resorts to stay in, with something for everyone. From luxury chalets to budget apartments, family-friendly to party central, you’ll find it here.
• Regardless of where you stay you’ll find excellent alpine hospitality and cuisine.
• A large number of pistes means there is something to delight every visitor, from complete beginners to keen kids, serious speedsters to laid back groups on the hunt for hot chocolate spots.
• A large number of high altitude pistes and glacier ski areas also means there is a long season with plenty of snow-sure pistes regardless of when you visit and recent snow conditions.
• Located in the geographic centre of the French alps, you’ll find truly breathtaking landscapes in every direction.

The Three Valleys: Three Resorts

Getting to know the three valleys – and their resorts – is key to finding the best fit for you. Each has their own character, geography and highlights that make them worthy destinations in their own right.

Courchevel

Of all the towns in the Three Valleys, Courchevel is probably the one whose reputation precedes it most. But whilst it’s known as a playground for the well-to-do, there’s plenty here that challenges your expectations.

This valley alone is home to 150km of superb pistes, from the pretty tree-lined lower slopes of La Praz and La Tania to the fast and furious runs that streak down from the Saulire and Chanrossa. Courchevel has more than its fair share of high-altitude skiing, with the majority above 2,000m. Dismiss this resort as a destination for luxury-lovers and you’ll miss out on some fantastic skiing.

Much to my surprise, I’ve found there are plenty of ways to enjoy this part of the Three Valleys on a more modest budget. Stay in the lower altitude villages and you can benefit from the best of Courchevel’s ski area at a price comparable to resorts elsewhere in the French Alps. I loved our stay in La Tania – and would head back in a flash.

Want to know more about our stay in La Tania in Courchevel? Check out Skiing in La Tania: The best-kept secret in the Three Valleys.

Where to ski in Courchevel

When it comes to wide and cruisy blues, it’s hard to find many better than Creux and Lac Creux that sweep down from the magnificent Col de la Saulire. They might not be the most challenging runs, but the scenery is spectacular and you can cover a surprising distance without intersecting with any other pistes. This is a great spot to get your legs working and cover good ground without getting your piste map out.

Improvers will love the wide, quiet slopes of Chapelets on the very far side of Courchevel 1650. A little off the beaten path, we had the slopes to ourselves when we headed here. It’s an easy red, and without any crowds you can take time to enjoy the spectacular views beyond the ski area.

Where to find the best views in Courchevel

The 3 Vallées is blessed with some exceptional panoramas, and Courchevel is home to more than its fair share.

I’m especially fond of Col de la Loze that crowns the La Tania ski area. What this peak lacks in altitude, it more than makes up for with views thanks to its location at the crossing point between two valleys. Look to the north and you’ll see imposing Mont Blanc with the peaks of nearby La Plagne and Les Arcs in the foreground. Spin round 180 degrees and you’ll find inviting views of the tree-lined pistes leading into Meribel. Whichever way you turn here, you won’t be disappointed.

If it’s high-altitude thrills you’re after, head to the top of the Col de la Saulire. This is the highest of the Cols between the Courchevel and Meribel valleys and, perhaps not surprisingly, it’s breathtaking on a clear day. Once you’ve had your fill of panoramas, you’ll find an enticing selection of pistes heading in every direction.

Beyond the piste

Staying in Courchevel comes with a formidable price tag. Rustic alpine cooking is replaced by refined dining, and chic galleries and boutiques fill the streets of Courchevel 1850 in place of the usual purveyors of cold beers and vin chauds.

But throw any preconceptions aside. One of the best things to do in Courchevel is free. For the past ten years or so, the resort has supported an initiative called Art on the Slopes. Quite literally, they’ve been taking contemporary pieces of art and placing them on the piste for everyone to enjoy. It’s unique, exciting and a great excuse to get around the mountain – whether you’re on skis, a board or two feet.

When I last visited in 2019, the slopes were scattered with spectacular works from sculptor Richard Orlinski, like this imposing stag we stumbled across at the top of the Biollay.

Courchevel is also home to Aquamotion, the largest spa and leisure complex in the 3 Vallées. With everything from luxurious wellbeing experiences to family-friendly fun pools and flumes, it’s a great option for white-out days and when you want a little post-ski TLC. There’s even an indoor climbing wall if you want to try something a little different.

Looking for more off-piste ideas in Courchevel? Check out A magical winter walk to Lac de la Rosière, Courchevel for more inspiration.

Meribel

If charming chalets and a more traditional alpine feel is your cup of tea, Meribel might be for you. The twin villages of Meribel-Mottaret and Meribel-Centre are tucked away amongst the tree-lined lower slopes of the valley, and offer a peaceful escape between the hustle and bustle of Val Thorens and flashiness of Courchevel.

That said, there’s much more to Meribel than just its good looks. It’s an unrivalled location. Right at the heart of the 3 Vallées area, the pistes of Courchevel and Val Thorens are just one lift away. This makes it an exceptional base for keen skiers and boarders who want to take maximum advantage of everything this ski area can offer.

Exploring Meribel’s ski area

Meribel has some of the most diverse pistes in the three valleys. The lower slopes of the valley are criss-crossed with cruisy blues and greens that weave amongst snow-tipped pine trees. Higher up, you’ll find wide, inviting reds and demanding blacks – and ungroomed pistes for those who want a challenge.

The steep valley slopes mean that it’s at its best during the late morning and at noon when the sun reaches down to the villages. Later in the afternoon the lower slopes can become a little shady – but offer great shelter on heavier snow days.

Where to ski in Meribel

Mauduit is an inviting red that features enough distance and variety to really get your teeth into. Starting at the top of the Col de la Saulire, you can follow it all the way back into Meribel Centre. On a bluebird February morning this wide, rolling piste is drenched in sunshine and almost completely empty. It’s heaven.

If you’re keen to tackle some more difficult pistes, consider trying the Ecureuil. This black run is accessed from the top of the Tougnete 2 lift, and you can helpfully take a good look at the piste as you travel high above it on the lift. Ungroomed, it got rave reviews from my boarder friend who loved having some decent powder to tackle. I loved the uncomplicated route of this more challenging run, giving me more time to enjoy the skiing and spectacular views.

Where to find the best views in Meribel

You’ve got to try the Tougnete. You’ll love the views far more than trying to get your tongue around the pronunciation of this peak.

It doesn’t look remarkable on the piste map. But sometimes the most unassuming places are the best. Besides which, if you’re travelling across the 3 Vallées from Courchevel or Meribel to Val Thorens, you’ll likely take the Tougnete 1 and Tougnete 2 lifts up to this Col where the Allues and Belleville valleys intersect. As you hop off at the top, a breathtaking vista opens up in front of you. It only gets better as you take the (very gentle) Gros Tougne in front of you into Les Menuires. It’s one of my favourite spots in the whole of the 3 Vallées.

Après-ski in Meribel

Hop off at the mid-station of the Saulire Express, and head down to the chalet just below. Here you’ll find the most extraordinary lunch-spots in the Alps – and an après venue with a fearsome reputation.

This is La Folie Douce, a bar and restaurant that’s been setting the standard for outrageous on-piste experiences since 1969. Whilst the owners have opened several further bars in other French resorts, there’s nothing quite like the original. At the far end of the chalet complex is La Fruitiere, a smart à la carte restaurant with eye-watering prices. The rest of the terrace is a large seating area where you’ll find surprisingly good casual food at lunchtime – but transforms into a bar and dancefloor once the sun starts to sink.

You might be wondering just what’s so special about this venue. The party starts here before noon and continues – growing in size – until the pistes have closed. Arrive at lunchtime and you’ll already find DJ’s playing on the terrace, live music and cabaret shows taking place. The entertainment grows to a crescendo throughout the afternoon, and it’s quite frankly like nothing else you’ve ever seen. The wealthy and well to-do come to party here, but everyone’s welcome. The drinks might not be cheap, but it’s worth being part of a spectacle you won’t forget.

Val Thorens

Set in a bowl-shaped valley, Val Thorens is distinctly different to the other three valleys. High above the treeline, it’s set in a lunar-like landscape that offers some of the best snow-sure skiing in the Alps. The season starts early here and runs until early May.

The towns of Val Thorens, and Les Menuires a little further down the valley, are purpose-built resorts designed with just one thing in mind. Getting you onto the piste as quickly as possible. A huge number of the hotels and apartment complexes here are ski-in, ski-out, and what they lack in alpine charm is more than made up for with convenience.

Val Thorens mostly attracts a younger crowd than Courchevel and Meribel, in part because there are many budget-friendly accommodation options here. Les Menuires is popular with families, as this more compact resort has a village-feel and friendly facilities for smaller skiers.

Val Thorens ski area

I’m hugely fond of Val Thorens. This was the first area I skied in the 3 Vallées, and it was the first resort that really gave me the confidence to stretch myself on snow. It’s a fantastic place to find your feet in as it’s packed with confidence-boosting wide, cruisy blue runs and plenty of piste for less experienced skiers to get their teeth into. You won’t be stuck on the same nursery slopes here.

But don’t let me lure you into thinking that Val Tho is just for beginners. There’s a huge range of pistes to suit even the most advanced skiers and boarders, with challenging reds and blacks, moguls and ungroomed pistes to be found. Getting across to Meribel for more ski miles is easy, plus there’s great glacier skiing high up.

Where to ski in Val Thorens

Now I’m more than a little fond of some of Val Thorens easier pistes. Whilst I love challenging myself on skis, there are some fantastic confidence-boosting runs in this resort that beginners and more experienced skiers can both enjoy.

The sunny, south-facing slopes of Mont de la Chambre are amongst my favourite in the whole ski area. I spent a lot of time on these pistes on my first trip to Val Thorens. The wide, sweeping runs offered plenty of space to perfect my turns and learn to tackle new slopes with confidence. Pluviometre remains my firm favourite – it’s a joy to blast down this blue. Challenging enough to feel like you’ve earner the awe-inspiring views, comfortable enough for everyone in your group to enjoy.

For fun, fast and not at all challenging in a good way, head to the top of the Moraine lift and take the Moraine or Gentianes pistes back into the valley. They’re a great warm up as there’s enough gradient to get your legs moving, but they’re also friendly enough that you can enjoy as a newbie or with little ones.

Where to find the best views in Val Thorens

Viewpoints don’t get much better than the Cime Caron. The second highest peak in the 3 Vallées offers one of the best panoramas in the French Alps (and I don’t say that lightly!). To the north, Meribel and Courchevel stretch out in front of you, with the peaks of Les Arcs and ultimately Mont Blanc beyond. The rest of the Alps opens up to the south, where you can pick out more well-known ski areas receding into the distance.

For views straight down into Val Thorens, take the Funitel up the Peclet. Whilst you can’t head all the way to the top of this peak (that stands at a staggering 3,561m above the town), it’s worth stopping on the chalet terrace close to the top so you can drink in the views. As with the Cime Caron, the skiing is pretty fabulous down from the top here – meandering reds slice back into the valley. But there’s also a gentler blue option, so everyone can enjoy an adventure up here.

Off the piste – unrivalled apres in Val Thorens

You can’t come to Val Thorens without experiencing La Folie Douce here at least once. There’s nowhere else quite like it.

Yes, there’s also a Folie Douce in Meribel. And it’s great. I’m not repeating myself. But the Folie Douce in Val Thorens is an entirely different beast.

Think of it as the cooler, wilder, younger brother – where the party starts early and spills onto the piste. Arrive mid-afternoon at the top of the Plein Sud lift and you’ll find après in full swing, not just on the terrace of the chalet (where you’ll find the DJ and live artists) but on the slopes all around. It starts out mellow, then as the sun starts to sink the DJs crank out the club tunes. Eventually it’s time for the singalong party classics (yes, you’ll be in the mood for it by this time!) that have the crowd going until it’s time to call it a day. The entertainment draws to a close as the lifts do, so you’ll have to ski back down into VT – which is all part of the experience (expect comedic carnage).

Whether you want to grab a few beers and party, or simply people-watch at one of the more unusual après experiences you’ll find in the Alps, I can’t recommend it enough.

Don’t be fooled into thinking Val Thorens is just a one trick party town though, as it has much more to offer. Aside from a surprisingly good variety of restaurants, bars and even a cinema off the piste, there are other high-altitude thrills on the snow. Head to the Peclet to experience Europe’s longest toboggan run (this town isn’t shy of record beating experiences, it’s the highest altitude resort in Europe too). Or, for even speedier thrills (and probably a few less bruises) try the Bee Line. This zip line at the top of the Moutieres lift will fly you for almost 2km down the mountainside and back into town.

Three Valleys travel resources

How to get to the Three Valleys

There are regular scheduled and private transfers to the Three Valleys from Geneva, Grenoble and Chambery airports. Most require a change at Moutiers, a small town in the valley with a large transport hub. Moutiers rail station also offers regular connections to Paris for onward travel, with Eurostar overnight ski services from the UK and northern Europe also stopping here.

Whilst the journey from the airport to Moutiers takes around 2 hours or so (slightly less from Chambery), it takes 30-40 minutes from Moutiers to each of the resorts.

How to get around the Three Valleys

This is best accomplished on skis and using the lift network. The nature of the three valleys means that moving from one resort to another is pretty tricky. There are some useful local shuttle bus services, connecting all the villages in the Courchevel valley for example, but otherwise a taxi will be required. It’s wise to check lift closing times and plan your day to make sure you can get home on piste and avoid a pricey transfer.

What to pack for the Three Valleys

Check out my suggestions in A complete guide to what to pack for your ski trip.

Back to the Three Valleys

So that’s it, everything you need to know about Les 3 Vallées. Whether you’re considering heading here for the first time, or are another huge fan like myself, I hope I’ve offered some fresh ideas. There’s quite literally nowhere quite like this place, and with so much to explore and so many reasons to return I’ve no doubt I’ll be back.