Why you should visit Lake Annecy: France’s best-kept secret

There’s a city in the French Alps that crowns an incredible, deep-blue lake. At the water’s edge, sweeping mountains rise to rocky peaks grey-green in the sunlight. It’s called Lake Annecy, and it’s my favourite place.

It was hard to decide whether to write this post. It feels a bit like I’m giving away a family secret, or that at the very least there should be some kind of initiation ceremony before I tell all. But the whole point of this site is to share my travel secrets with you lovely people, and I’m about to give away my biggest one. My favourite place to escape to in Europe. And you might just have never heard of it.

I love exploring new places, but there remains a part of me that finds huge pleasure returning to those that tug most at my heartstrings. It’s one thing to enjoy a flying visit, but it’s something else to spend time really getting to know somewhere.

For me there’s a region that occupies a special place in my heart, that keeps luring me back – Lake Annecy, in the French Alps.

I first arrived in Annecy in the early 1990’s. I was just 5 years old, but the vivid memories of this trip are indelibly printed on my mind. I remember watching the Tour de France whoosh by us on a roadside – a travelling carnival of anticipation followed by a blur of cyclists. I saw soaring mountains for the first time and I paddled tentatively in the lake fresh from my first swimming lessons. Since then, I can’t count how many times I’ve returned, both with my family as I grew up and more recently with my partner. Each visit adds to a rich patchwork of memories and a greater understanding of, and love for, this region. I’ve followed new paths, explored new towns and relived my favourite places. And as I do, somehow the magic grows.

So here’s my introduction to one of France’s most beautiful cities and one of Europe’s most breathtaking landscapes, and why I think you’re going to like it.

There’s no AI here! Every post on Travels with a Saddle Bag is written by myself and based on my own travels. This post was written in 2017 and last updated in November 2024, based on dozens of visits to Lake Annecy over the past thirty(!) years, most recently in 2022.

Let me introduce you to Lake Annecy

Annecy is the largest town in the alpine department of Haute-Savoie in eastern France. It sits at the top of a lake 14km long, which is the third largest in France and, remarkably, the cleanest in Europe. Whilst the surrounding peaks are tipped with snow in winter, it remains relatively mild at the lakeside until the summer sun beckons in warm, dry weather. It feels more like the Mediterranean than the mountains in mid-summer.

Lake Annecy and its mountainous surroundings are the most spectacular outdoor playground for those who love walking, cycling, swimming, sailing, running, paragliding, skiing and paddleboarding. In short, for those of us who love exploring and love dramatic landscapes. For most people who come to visit, this is what brings them here – but it’s also what keeps a smile on the face of the locals you meet.

Go beyond the lake and you’ll find one of France’s lesser-known but most beautiful cities. You’ll also find lakeside towns and villages where old and new comfortably rub shoulders, where old farming traditions remain an integral part of village life but outdoor sports enthusiasts and campers are welcomed with open arms.

Want to get a real feel for the place? Sit in Café de la Place in Menthon St. Bernard nursing a noisette and ponder whether you could find a more perfectly French spot to pass the morning. It’s a region that’s moving with the times, but it’s not worried that the ancient charms of alpine life will be lost – they’re very much still alive here.You don’t need to compromise in Annecy. You can enjoy the delights of a city, with ancient streets to explore yet cosmopolitan bars and cafes. But there’s also the great outdoors on your doorstep, at its grandest scale.

Mystifyingly, word hasn’t spread far. Annecy is popular with French holidaymakers, and reasonably well-known in Northern Europe. But mention Annecy in the UK and you’ll normally hear “Where?” in return. It’s still a region for those in the know – and that’s a part of its charm.

Why you should visit Lake Annecy

I think there are four indisputable reasons to visit Lake Annecy.

• The city of Annecy
• The lake
• The mountains
• The culture

Not expecting such a short list? Read on to find out why these four beautifully simple things are really what makes this place so perfect.

The city of Annecy

There are two parts to the city of Annecy. Medieval streets of the old town that lap against the shores of the lake, and the modern, vibrant city that’s alive with culture and people.

The ancient thoroughfares of the old town cluster around the River Thiou – a rushing body of turquoise water that’s bridged by wrought iron beauties heavy with colourful flowers. The pastel facades of buildings hint at the city’s alpine location – wooden balconies peek out from upper floors, stone arcades hint at crisp winter weather and rooftops start to look a little chalet-like. But they’d all look equally at home in the Languedoc or Provence.

There’s also plenty to keep you occupied beyond the charming corners of the cobble-stoned vieille ville. If history is your thing, there’s a majestic little castle perched above the town, the Palais de l’Isle – an ancient prison situated mid-stream of the Thiou, and a smattering of Italianate churches that look especially pretty lit up at night. But I’d recommend experiencing Annecy like a local.

Come into town early and pick up a breakfast pastry at Marmillon on Rue Sainte-Claire (or try one of their magnificent homemade praline meringues). Then get a flavour for the delicious local produce at the thrice-weekly street market, and watch the hustle and bustle of a quintessentially French spectacle over a coffee. Pick a restaurant a little way off the main street or alongside one of the little canals for dinner. And for a truly magical end to the day, stroll the Jardins de l’Europe to the lakeside and the Pont des Amours, and watch the lights dancing on the water at dusk.

The lake

The lake is the living, breathing heart of this region. And whilst every alpine lake has a spectacular, raw beauty, there’s something extra-special about Lake Annecy.

First, it feels almost impossible to escape views of the water. It seems like wherever you look, vistas open up that capture its magic from a slightly different angle. The colours of the water, the reflections on its surface, its setting in this spellbinding landscape – it all changes as you move and look upon the water from different places.

Secondly, you need to embrace the lake like a local (trust me, it won’t take long to resist). If there is one thing the locals love to do, it’s be in, on or next to the water. The lakeside beaches are glorious emerald green expanses of grass gently sloping down to the water, packed with picnickers and paddlers, serious swimmers and sunbathers every single day from early June to late September. In every village you’ll find moorings and slipways for boats, and on a breezy day the lake swarms with yachts and dinghies. Paddle boards and kayaks are an everyday entertainment. The beautifully clean and clear water is an irresistible temptation the moment the sun is out.

The mountains

The mountains around Lake Annecy are alpine, but not high alpine. Approaching from the north (as most visitors do), you’ll meander through a landscape of rolling hills and valleys. Nothing aside from the altitude change hints at your alpine approach. It’s not until you’ve navigated your way through the city and appear, all of a sudden, at the lakeside that you’ll see any big peaks. But when you do, it takes your breath away for a moment.

These beautiful creatures rise into the distance from the town of Annecy: to the north is largely an alluvial plain, but each side of the lake is capped with majestic peaks. They’re not as high as some of their southern and eastern cousins – but they’re no less awe-inspiring. The western side, côte ouest, is generally less explored, but miss it and you’ll miss the imposing Mt. Semnoz. It’s a hiker’s and cyclist’s dream with unmissable views from the alpine meadows at its peak on a clear day.

It’s the eastern side of the lake, côte est, that’s home to the biggest peaks and the most challenging walking and climbing. The rocky outcrops of La Tournette and the jagged teeth of the Dents de Lanfon dominate the skyline and attract some serious climbers as well as alpine wildlife. There’s walking aplenty in the luscious evergreen woodland of the foothills of these peaks, whilst the high alpine meadows above blossom with a rainbow of wildflowers in the late spring and early summer.

The culture

There are many beautiful places in this world. Sadly Europe has more than its fair share of contrived tourist traps, elegant but empty villages and overly-renovated spots that feel more like a facade or a movie set. Finding places that make your heart leap, yet feel welcoming – and alive – isn’t as easy as I wish it was.

All of which is to say, Annecy is not one of those places.

It is jaw-droppingly beautiful, but it is real. This city and region is vibrant, lively and home to real people living real lives (albeit real lives you would very much like to swap for your own).

Here people embrace the great outdoors. Summer, winter, everything in between. On sweltering hot days, the lakeside beaches are packed with locals sharing a picnic lunch with friends, paddling on the lake, basking in the sun. Come the cooler season, mountain trails are where you find those in the know – hiking, running, biking, cross-country skiing. And on Saturday night – away from the old town – locals are out and about eating, drinking, catching up with friends. You only have to know where to go. If enjoying the great outdoors, by any means (even simply soaking up the sun with a café au lait on a cafe terrace), is your thing you will love it here.

It’s no coincidence that this area also plays host to a huge range of events throughout the year. From literary festivals to trail races, paddle board competitions to a major marathon, the calendar is rarely quiet. Annecy regularly plays host to the Tour de France, and the iconic Fête du Lac is a crowning jewel in a busy social season. Every weekend you’ll find local festivities, free music events and sporting competitions taking place in the surrounding towns and villages. Don’t resist joining in if you’re here. Soak up the atmosphere, get stuck in (the confidence to shout ‘Allez! Allez!’ at any kind of sporting event will have you fitting right in) and enjoy being part of the spectacle that makes this place so special.

Lastly, the people here are proud of their region and its rich heritage. Proud to share their local produce and the story behind it at one of the local markets, or at the farm gate. Proud to stand by the lakeside or roadside and support sporting heros (professional or have-a-go weekenders alike) even in the pouring rain. Proud to recommend their favourite restaurants, hidden beauty spots and unmissable walking routes.

Nothing tells you how much the locals feel about this place like experiencing the magic of the Fête du Lac on a hot summer evening. Whilst you can book tickets for tiered seating for this fireworks spectacular in town, head to any of the lakeside parks within a couple of kilometres of town as the sun starts to set for the real show. Jostle for space between folks aged 9 months to 90 years, bring a bottle and maybe a barbecue and say hello to your neighbours. Then watch for the sheer magic of an unofficial flotilla of boats twinkling with lights head up the lake and then pause. They’re packed with Anneciens waiting for things to begin. Watch for the mountaintop camera flashes that tell you even more ambitious viewpoints have been sought out. It doesn’t matter that your view won’t be ideal, because the atmosphere will be. Everyone, by any means, makes sure they’re part of this annual celebration of this special, special place.

Annecy, I’ll always return

Annecy is all about contrasts and complements, city streets and rugged mountain peaks. And whichever you prefer, there’s no escaping the mesmerising waters of the lake. For someone like me who finds it hard to make a call between the wild beauty of rural regions and the energy of a city break, Annecy offers the perfect compromise. One that has kept me coming back for over thirty years. I’d challenge anyone who loves alpine landscapes, an outdoor lifestyle and the best of French culture not to fall in love with this place.

To find out more, explore my guides to 10 unmissable things to do around Lake Annecy, and Where to stay around Lake Annecy. Because with so much choice, finding the right place to base yourself and knowing how to make the most of your stay will help you get the most from your time here.

I might usually be an advocate for always trying somewhere new, but this is my one exception to the rule. Annecy stole a very special part of my heart a long time ago, and I’m very much OK with that. I’m now busy plotting my first visit with our little one. It’s time to introduce someone new.