There and back again: A city guide to Helsinki
Helsinki is a compact, coastal Nordic capital that’s packed with surprising contemporary architecture as well as plenty of heritage. Whilst there’s bucketloads to discover here, it’s possible to get a good feel for this bustling city in just a day (powered by hot chocolate and the Finnish favourite, coffee).
I’ve never been one to turn down the chance to visit a new country. So I couldn’t resist the temptation to head across to Helsinki whilst I was staying in nearby Tallinn. The Finnish capital was tantalisingly close.
It was a chill October day with snow in the air, and the ferry crossing had been more than a little hairy. But that’s not the sort of thing to deter me. We were determined to make the most of a day in this pocket-sized capital city. Autumn may not be the toastiest time to visit, but if you pull on your thermals and grab a hot chocolate you’ll find Helsinki is a cosy Scandinavian city with lots to explore.
Here’s my guide to packing plenty into just one day.
There’s no AI here! Every post on Travels with a Saddle Bag is written by myself and based on my own travels. This post was written in November 2017 and last updated in November 2024, based on my visit to Helsinki in October 2017.
Introducing Helsinki
The Finnish capital is perched on the edge of the Baltic Sea and has been the administrative and educational centre for this modest nation for over a century. It’s a stones throw (well, a fifty mile stones throw) from the Estonian capital of Tallinn, it’s southern neighbour.
It’s a thriving business centre that’s peppered with contemporary architecture, elegant official buildings and sleek Art Deco apartments that are home to the friendly Finns who call this city home. There’s an abundance of green spaces as well as nautical nods along the waterfront areas. The skyline is low-rise and the centre compact – making it easy to explore on foot.
Unmissable sights in Helsinki
The churches and cathedrals of Helsinki are the undeniable attention grabbers. Whilst they aren’t normally the sights I gravitate to first, here they were irresistible and intriguing. The oldest can be seen from the South Harbour the moment you arrive in the city, with their onion domes glittering in the northern light. Their settings set them apart, as well as their colours.
Uspenski cathedral rises to the east of the South Harbour, punctuating the city skyline with its curves and vibrant colours. It’s the city’s only Russian Orthodox cathedral, and a delightfully exciting-looking creation. Perched above a little quayside, you’ll find a couple of enticing restaurants and cafes in the renovated brick warehouses below.
Only a skip and a jump away is Tuomiokirkko, the city’s Lutheran cathedral. Located atop a vast stone staircase that’d give Rocky something to get his teeth into, this cathedral couldn’t be more different. White, angular and somewhat restrained, it looks more like a parliamentary or governmental building than a place of worship. It’s worth a visit to take in its setting close to the water and at the heart of the city.
Historic buildings aside, don’t miss the Church in the Rock, one of Helsinki’s most surprising 20th century additions. Carved into a natural slab of granite, it’s a stunning circular building with a glass and copper roof that lets daylight flood in. I’d challenge anyone not to be impressed by this slice of natural beauty right in the heart of a cosmopolitan city.
Where to explore in Helsinki’s city centre
We arrived on an express passenger ferry that no longer operates (it has been replaced by a much better service, more details later). This landed us right by the market square. I’d still recommend this as an excellent starting point for your day in Helsinki – hop on a tram to reach here.
The Market Square faces onto the South Harbour and in summer is packed with stalls waiting to welcome visitors and locals. On a brisk October morning there were a few determined grocers and coffee sellers huddled for warmth under their awnings, but for the most part the square was empty. This meant we could properly take in the grand buildings that run along its edge. Look out too for the Havis Amanda – a huge turn-of-the-century statue of a mermaid that’s reminiscent of Copenhagen’s Little Mermaid. Follow your feet onto Esplanadi, a wide boulevard that links the water with the central shopping area of the city. Strolling up the centre of Esplanadi reminded me of Paris, with pretty glasshouse cafes and neatly ordered tiers of trees lining the road.
Esplanadi takes you straight to the retail heart of Helsinki – the grand Stockmann department store and the scores of upmarket shopping streets that surround it. Hang a right and you’ll find yourself outside the vast Art Deco central rail station that sits slap bang in the centre of things. As grand architectural statements go, the station is one of Helsinki’s finest. Take a look inside at glamorous waiting rooms that’ll take you straight back in time to the heyday of rail travel, and marvel at the extraordinary place names on the departure boards.
The station is flagged by two areas that couldn’t be more different. To the east, there’s a mass of iridescent glass and steel where contemporary new buildings, including the Finlandia concert hall, have sprung up in the last few years. It’s a lively, vibrant area to stroll around with green open spaces stretching beyond it that were just out of reach in the short space of time we had. I enjoyed the contrast against the elegant old apartment buildings and churches beyond.
Take a wander to the west of the station and you’ll find yourself in the midst of Keskuspuisto Park, a swathe of greenery that runs down to the water. It’s a huge space that we only had time to scratch the surface of, but if I’d had more time it would have been delightful to explore.
Lastly, make sure you put some time aside to meander around the little island of Katajanokka (just to the east of Market Square), home to Uspenski cathedral and dozens of pretty brick townhouses and little pockets of greenery. We spotted some great looking bars and eateries here.
Markets in Helsinki
Regular readers of this blog will know I wasn’t going to miss an opportunity to explore the market halls of this city (and get a feel for the local food) even if I wasn’t here for long. They’re a fantastic way to see a ‘real’ side to a city, discover local flavours and often find exceedingly high quality and affordable spots to eat and drink. Helsinki didn’t disappoint.
Hakaniemi Market Hall is where Helsinki locals shop, and is home to butchers, bakers, grocers and every type of food purveyor you could imagine. It’s not glamorous but it is authentic and packed with high quality produce that’ll set your mouth watering. The hall was about to undergo a major renovation project when we visited, and I’d be excited to return and see this historic building now restored to its former glory.
Alternatively, try the Old Market Hall on the waterfront for more of a gourmet experience. Another beautiful brick building, this chic market is home to upmarket delicatessens, coffee shops and little restaurants. It manages to be charming and approachable in spite of the slightly eye-watering prices – but you’ll still be able to pick up a hot chocolate and cinnamon bun and have a few Euros left in your pocket. It’s worth stopping here just to admire the architecture and marvel at the old photographs on the wall as much as to enjoy the food.
Lunch in Helsinki
We were lucky enough to genuinely stumble across a great little cafe for lunch. The delightfully unassuming Espresso Edge is a gem of a place, tucked away mostly below street level. Cosy, fragrant with coffee and brimming with homemade food, it was everything I was hoping for. Plus, they have giant pickles if, like me, you enjoy that sort of thing. Surprisingly affordable for a Nordic capital, it’s also close to the lovely Keskuspuisto Park.
Helsinki travel resources
We travelled to Helsinki for a day from the Estonian capital, Tallinn. I’d highly recommend popping across to Finland for the day if you’re enjoying a break in this Baltic beauty.
How to get to Helsinki from Tallinn
Travel as a foot passenger on a Tallink ferry to Helsinki’s West Harbour. These modern boats are comfortable and surprisingly lively. Ours offered an eccentric supermarket (tinned bear anyone?) and a selection of restaurants, cafes and bars that help to pass the time well. With a journey time of around two hours, book an early crossing and enjoy breakfast on board to set you up for the day ahead.
How to get around Helsinki
The Finnish capital is a very walkable city with most sights no more than 30 minutes walk from the South Harbour. To reach the West Harbour, or explore further out in the city, make use of the comprehensive tram network.
One day in Helsinki: In a nutshell
A pocket-sized guide to a pocket-sized city. We might not have picked a time of year to see Helsinki at its best, but it did its best to charm us – and succeeded. For architecture lovers there’s a lot to fall in love with, and there’s a vibrant food scene to get your teeth into.
We might not have had the time to try all that Helsinki has to offer (I’d still like to explore Suomenlinnan, the huge sea fortress at the entrance to the city’s harbour) but what we did do told us we’d be happy to go back. It’s also a fantastic contrast to the fairytale turrets, hip coffee shops and breweries of Tallinn – a contrast that somehow helped me to love both a little more.
