Not just another Ljubljana city guide
Think of Ljubljana as Vienna’s laid-back cousin, lazing in the Mediterranean sunshine next to the fast-flowing, emerald waters of the Ljubljanica river. This vibrant and undeniably charming compact capital is perfect for a summer city break – and there’s much more to explore than most travel guides hint at.
We arrived in Ljubljana in the dark, after a late flight.
I usually prefer to arrive in a new destination mid-morning, ready for coffee and to hit the city streets immediately. But as I’m not in charge of Easyjet’s schedule, they got to call the shots on this occasion.
Our first glimpse of the city was in the dappled light just after dawn the next day, as we stepped out the door of our hostel. It transpired that fate had dealt us a good hand. In less than a minute I’d fallen in love with this captivating city. The delight was even greater than the anticipation.
Ljubljana is a city you just can’t help falling for. An irresistible mix of centuries old architecture and modern cafe culture, with a freshness and vibrancy that comes from the fast flowing river and its leafy banks that anchor the old town to its ancient hilltop castle. Ljubljana feels young, but has lovingly preserved the most beautiful (and some of the most authentic) parts of its past.
As usual, I read a lot of travel guides before we visited, but none seemed to capture the charisma and spirit of this green and enticing destination. Most of them didn’t suggest exploring beyond the handful of interesting – but nonetheless very close together – bridges in the old town. So in this guide I’ve tried to capture a little more of Ljubljana – more history, food, drink and authenticity. And I promise you, the charms of this city are hard to resist.
There’s no AI here! Every post on Travels with a Saddle Bag is written by myself and based on my own travels. This post was written in September 2018 and last updated in December 2024, based on my visit to Ljubljana in July 2018.
Introducing Ljubljana
Ljubljana is the capital city of Slovenia, a beautiful little country that borders Italy, Austria and Croatia amongst others. Tucked away between the Alps and the Mediterranean, it’s a lush green land of rivers, mountains and farmland – packed with pretty little towns and friendly people.
Located on the broad plains that border the Ljubljanica river, there’s been a community where Ljubljana now stands since prehistoric times. The Roman town of Emona (now part of the modern city) cemented Ljubljana’s place on the map. The abundance of the surrounding agricultural region supported the town’s growth during the medieval period.
In recent centuries, Slovenia has experienced a somewhat complex political history, with the city at various points being a part of the Hapsburg, Napoleonic and Austrian empires as well as the former Yugoslavia – and each period in time has left its mark. It means that Ljubljana manages to feel distinctly Slovenian, but also very European.
Aside from the busy old town along the water’s edge, today there are huge areas of green space within the city limits as well as residential and commercial districts stretching into the distance. It’s not a huge city, but it is both a cosy and vibrant one.
Why I think you’ll love Ljubljana
I liked this city immensely from the moment I began exploring. There are three things that make Ljubljana stand out amongst its European neighbours.
The architecture
Despite the adversities endured by the people of Ljubljana and Slovenia throughout the twentieth century, the structure of the city has largely remained unscathed. This makes it an architecture enthusiast’s dream: the elegant townhouses and churches of this city are authentic and original, and not overly restored. What you see here is not reconstructions or reimaginations, it’s the real Ljubljana.
And if the city looks a little familiar, that’s because it is – if you have visited Vienna. Vienna’s most noted architect of the 20th century was Joze Plecnik. Who just happened to be Slovenian, and the chief architect of many of Ljubljana’s most striking buildings. Think of Ljubljana as Vienna’s charming but laid-back cousin.
It’s footloose
The old town has been sympathetically pedestrianised in recent years. It feels very people friendly. Cafes and restaurants sprawl onto pavements and terraces, which I love.
It’s green
Lastly, Ljubljana is delightfully green. Whether you’re exploring Tivoli park or strolling along the tree-lined riverbanks, it’s easy to forget you’re in a capital city. Instead it’s easier to imagine you’re in the lush Slovenian countryside, that’s just a stone’s throw away.
What to do in Ljubljana
There is so much more to do in the centre of Ljubljana than checking out the handful of churches and bridges every tourist guide will recommend (although don’t dismiss them entirely, they are delightful). Head a little further afield than the old town and you’ll be richly rewarded.
1. Explore the old town
The city centre of Ljubljana is made for meandering on a sunny morning or early evening as the sun starts to sink.There’s a few popular sights to catch, if you’re keen to check out the city’s landmarks. It’s impossible to miss the many (and admittedly rather beautiful) bridges that span the river – the Dragon bridge, adorned with very Game of Thrones-esque bronze dragons and Triple bridge at the heart of the city are amongst the most iconic. The vibrant pink church immediately opposite the Triple bridge makes for a rather stunning exclamation mark in the centre of the city.
But most of all, it’s a city to soak up the atmosphere in. Most of the historic core, plus the banks of both sides of the river, are pedestrianised. Enjoy the pretty little streets and passageways, stumble across squares, dip into pastel-coloured churches – and make time to stop for coffee on a terrace and watch the world go by.
2. Head up to the castle – Ljubljana Grad
Wander around Ljubljana and you’ll come across views of the castle from all angles. But head to Castle Hill itself, and you can enjoy views of every angle of Ljubljana.
It’s a cracker of a castle for a capital city. Perched on a rocky hillside above a curve in the river, it’s clear that this would have been a fantastic defensive position in the past. The castle itself has medieval roots and can be explored from €12 but I’d suggest that you can have almost as much fun without paying an entrance fee. You can stroll around all of the defensive walls, explore the beech woodlands that top the hill, search for the castle vineyards (it took us two attempts to find this hidden gem) and check out the numerous other viewpoints that face in all directions across the city below you – free of charge.
There are several paths (as well as a funicular that runs from time to time) to the hilltop. We followed the path that starts at Gornju Trg as it was quietest. It turned out to be an excellent plan. Not only did the climb only take ten minutes, but the views that unfolded on the way were astonishingly good.
3. Discover the city’s museums
For a small city, Ljubljana is home to a surprising number of museums. If you’ve only got a few days here, like us, I’d recommend starting with the City Museum of Ljubljana. The museum’s expansive first floor gives you a whistle-stop tour of the city’s past from prehistory through to the late 20th century. It’s an insightful, enjoyable and easily digestible way to find out more about Ljubljana and the history of Slovenia – not too heavy, and with translations into several languages.
Unexpectedly – but delightfully – head down the basement and you’ll find exposed Roman structures right under your feet. And on the top floor, you’ll find an ever-changing exhibition space where we enjoyed an excellent exhibition dedicated to Slovenian playwright Ivan Cankar.
4. Uncover Roman Emona
If you’ve dipped your feet into the city’s history at the City Museum, go one step further and explore the Roman remains of Emona hidden in plain sight amongst the city streets.
Stretches of Roman city walls are easy to find (and helpfully signposted) – although they’ve been ‘re-shaped’ a little by enthusiastic architects early in the 20th century. But crucially, keep hold of your museum ticket. The reception staff at the museum will be able to point you in the direction of two Roman villas tucked away behind modern houses just a few minutes walk away. Follow the signs, dip into what looks like someone’s driveway, and unlock the large gate using your ticket. Hey presto! You’ve got a whole Roman villa to explore.
The villas are remarkably well-preserved and the remains are as well-signposted, protected and complete as any I’ve seen elsewhere in Europe. Best of all, you get the whole place to yourself to explore at your leisure. It’s absolutely fascinating.
5. Enjoy the city’s green spaces
For a capital city, Ljubljana is astonishingly green. From the tree-tops crowning Castle Hill to the weeping willows along the riverside, you’re never far from a leafy view. But step beyond the old town and there’s even more.
Make your way to Tivoli park to make the most of what the city has to offer.
It’s nothing like its namesake in Copenhagen (no candy floss I’m afraid). But this vast swathe of green is home to everything you could hope for in the heat of the city. Neat formal gardens, perfect for strolling. Wide expanses of grassy meadow that beckon you to bring a picnic. And best of all, acres of shady woodland, criss-crossed with trails and paths.
We happily spent an entire afternoon exploring this green space. Keen to escape the heat of the mid-afternoon sun, we followed one of the most popular walking routes to the top of Rožnik hill through deliciously shady woodland. A perfect pastel pink church pops out from the canopy at the top of the hill, and a little Gostalina (cafe) serves cold drinks and sweet treats on a shady terrace, with a view over the city rooftops. For somewhere you can reach on foot from the city centre, it’s pretty special.
6. Unwind by the river
You’d be hard pushed not to enjoy exploring the riverside in Ljubljana’s old town. But take a few steps beyond this part of town, and the riverside takes on a new character.
Head beyond Sentjakobski bridge, where the bars and cafes peter out, and follow the river further south. Here, the buildings take a step back from the water and instead greenery pervades. There’s a wide, stepped seating area where locals come with friends or the paper, to sit in the shade and escape the heat. Low hung willow trees make you feel far from the city centre location, and footpaths let you follow the river downstream. It’s a peaceful place – so close to the old town and yet so far from the hustle and bustle of a capital. It’s just you and the locals, and a great place to escape.
7. Check out street art in Metelkova
Street art is a little like marmite, you either love it or hate it.
If you’re not a fan, feel free to pass this by – but if you fancy side-stepping away from the city centre for a while, it’s worth heading over to Metelkova. Not far from the station, Metelkova is a former barracks with shades of Christiania in Copenhagen, another abandoned area taken over by artists. It’s relatively small but there are some really creative and interesting murals by local artists, alongside the more ubiquitous graffiti you might expect to see. The sea life mural below I really fell for, and made it worth the walk.
It’s worth bearing in mind that there isn’t much to do here, but it’s an intriguing area to explore if you want to discover the more alternative side to this city.
8. Indulge at the incredible market
Ljubljana’s central market is truly excellent.Aside from the striking riverside architecture that marks its location, there’s a lot to really love here. The market is held every day from around 7am in the open air, until at least noon. It’s largely dedicated to fruit and veg – with meat, seafood and dairy stalls located on the ground floor of a nearby building. We stopped by every morning after breakfast to buy fruit.
In recent years, I’ve noticed more and more European markets capitalising on the trend for street food (more so in larger cities than more rural areas to be fair). And whilst I’d be lying if I said I didn’t enjoy this from time to time, in some places – like Barcelona’s famous La Boqueria market – it’s squeezing out traditional stalls and sellers in favour of a sanitised version for tourists. It’s all started to lack a little authenticity for me. But this isn’t the case here, and it made me love this city all the more. Ljubljana central market is the real deal and full of local producers and suppliers selling the freshest Mediterranean produce, and long may it continue.
Where to eat and drink in Ljubljana
Ljubljana is packed with places to eat, and has a thriving cafe scene. Head to the old town and you’ll find the riverside lined with bars and restaurants. There’s plenty more to explore along the main pedestrianised streets too. We arrived in July, and found that almost every venue had a terrace or had claimed a small patch of pavement to spill out onto, making it an enjoyably atmospheric place to meander from cafe to bar to restaurant.
A quick note on Slovenian food – Ljubljana is a pretty cosmopolitan place, and most places serve largely Mediterranean food. You’ll find a lot of Italian style pasta and gnocchi dishes here, along with seafood from the coast and more alpine inspired dishes such as goulash and strudel. It’s also not hard to find places offering local produce.
Here are some of our favourites;
Petkovškovo nabrežje 65, 1000 Ljubljana | A five minute walk from the Dragon bridge | For the best brunch in town
We found this little gem just a few doors down from our hostel. Being a short walk from the old town means it’s a little off the beaten path, and all the better for it.
EK Bistro serves sophisticated brunch at Slovenian prices. We indulged in french toast with grilled apricots and pomegranate, and a creamy rice pudding with dulce de leche and fresh fruit, sitting on their riverside terrace. It’s not traditional, but it is delicious and ridiculously reasonable for such a lovely location.
Druga Violina
Stari trg 21, 1000 Ljubljana | For fantastic value at lunchtime
Pounding the city streets exploring means I’ve often got a huge appetite by lunchtime. The best place we found to fill up at noon was the astonishingly good value Druga Violina, where a main course of gnocchi in a tomato and basil sauce as well as a huge side salad set me back €5,50 (2018 prices). It’s not fancy food, but it’s filling and homemade. And with the pretty terrace outside you’d be forgiven for thinking you were somewhere considerably more upmarket.
Stari trg 19, 1000 Ljubljana | For beautifully presented local produce
My favourite place we ate in Ljubljana.
A little smarter than our usual picks, we treated ourselves to something a bit special for our last night in Ljubljana as we were self-catering for the rest of our trip.
Whilst it has a gorgeous interior, we couldn’t resist a table on the cobbled street outside on the baking July evening when we visited. We enjoyed locally produced steak with griddled potatoes, mediterranean veg and an aioli dressing that was unbelievably good. Great location, very high quality food, friendly service – and very generous portions of strudel for desert.
Magda
Pogačarjev trg 1, 1000 Ljubljana | Just off the market square | For drinks like a local
We stumbled across this place by chance as it’s almost invisible by day. This little bar is perfect if you’re looking for somewhere a little more relaxed and authentic than the riverside restaurants and bars nearby. A clutch of tables sit outside the door, but mostly customers sit on the terraced steps (don’t worry, there are cushions on hand). Sitting by the light of candles you can choose from a wide range of Slovenian craft beers and wines, and we were slightly astonished to notice that for the first time we were the only people not speaking Slovenian.
Note: As of 2024 it looks like Magda may sadly have closed. Please let me know if you can confirm otherwise.
Other notable mentions
I can’t pass on the subject of food and drink without two notable mentions for early in the day. For a delicious cup of coffee and great terraces, try Cafe Čokl near the market or Cafetino on Stari Trg. And if you’re a little peckish, Pekarna Osem is a disarmingly charming bakery that thinks it’s in Copenhagen rather than Ljubljana. Their croissants were seriously some of the best I’ve had.
Ljubljana travel resources
How to get to Ljubljana
Easyjet flies regularly to the Slovenian capital from cities across Europe. The city centre is 17 miles away and can be reached by local bus, minibus or taxi.
Alpetour operates frequent bus services throughout the day. It’s a comfortable coach that whisks you to the central bus station, 10 minutes walk from the old town. If you want to travel straight to your accommodation without any fuss, shuttle services are a popular choice at the airport and can be booked in advance online, or on arrival. You’ll likely share with other passengers heading the same way but it’s substantially cheaper than a taxi ride. But should you prefer a taxi, you’ll find these easy to book and plentiful.
How to get around Ljubljana
Compact and extensively pedestrianised, Ljubljana is best explored on foot. However if you’d like to get substantially further away from the old town, there’s a comprehensive tram and bus network.
Where to stay in Ljubljana
As with most capital cities, you’ll find plenty of choices when it comes to accommodation including hotels, hostels and rental apartments. We opted for H2O hostel, just a stone’s throw from the Dragon bridge in the centre of the old town. Smart, clean and immaculately renovated there’s not much not to like about the place. With a view over the river from our room and restricted vehicle access to the street outside, it was a surprisingly peaceful spot for a city centre. We booked a private room that was small, but offered great value for the location.
Lovely Ljubljana
Charming might be an overused word, but there are few words that better describe Ljubljana. Our stay here was as a springboard to more adventures up in the Slovenia Alps, but it was a real highlight of our trip.
Not only is the city undeniably beautiful, it’s easy to get around and compact enough to feel like you’ve got to know it well in just a few days. But there’s also an authenticity and vibrancy to the atmosphere that’s immediately likeable, and makes you want to stay.
Mid-summer isn’t the best time for a city break, speaking from past experience. I’ve sweltered in Paris and melted in Warsaw. But if you want to get away at this time of year, Ljubljana delights and surprises in equal measures. Down by the fast-flowing waters of the Ljubljanica, it feels cool even when it’s not. The luscious woodland shade of Castle Hill and Tivoli is delicious on a hot day. And it’s such a laid back city, it seems impossible to get hot and bothered – even when it’s roasting. I’m going throw all caution to the wind and say that it’s a city that’s at its best this time of year.
Would I come back? In a flash.
Planning a trip to Slovenia? Check out How to plan the perfect trip to Slovenia.
