A city guide to Tallinn: Baltic beauty in the Estonian capital

Tallinn is one of northern Europe’s best-preserved medieval cities, and an unsung gem of the Baltic region. My city guide to this fairytale capital shows you where to find the best food in Tallinn, which beautiful districts to explore and how to find spectacular skyline views.

Have you ever been somewhere that surprised you by how much it exceeded your expectations?

That’s how I felt when I arrived in Tallinn.

Naturally, I’d heard some good things about the old town. And friends who’d visited in summer had given good reviews. Otherwise, I suppose we might not have taken the plunge and booked our flights. But I’m never quite sure how well the reality will match up when you’re in a new country, and you’re travelling out of season.

Tallinn delighted from the moment we arrived, to the moment we said goodbye.The old town is larger, more beautiful and more animated than I’d expected (especially given that it was late October). The views over the rooftops are breathtaking, the restaurants and cafes of the old town as cosy and charming as you’d hope, and the surrounding residential districts are a rainbow of wooden houses. There’s a lively creative scene in the city and a wealth of contemporary restaurants that are serving a modern twist on Baltic food (that would cost three times as much if you were to skip across the water to Sweden or Finland). It feels like a young city with historic roots, that’s alive and kicking.

In a few short days I fell in love with Estonia.

There’s plenty to explore in Tallinn. In this city break guide I’ll walk you through some of my favourite areas in this compact capital; the Old Town, Rotermanni, Kalamata and Kadriorg. I’ll share my highlights of each so you can plan what to do in Tallinn (hint: it’s everything). I hope you enjoy it.

There’s no AI here! Every post on Travels with a Saddle Bag is written by myself and based on my own travels. This post was written in November 2017 and last updated in November 2024, based on my visit to Tallinn in October 2017.

Introducing Tallinn

Tallinn is the capital city of Estonia, located on the Baltic sea in northern Europe. Estonia, and Tallinn in particular, have a close relationship with nearby Finland, with Helsinki just over an hour away across the Baltic by sea.

Tallinn has ancient roots and a complex history, especially over the last 1,000 years. As an important and strategic port of the Hanseatic league, it grew from humble origins to become a powerful, fortified city during the middle ages. In more recent centuries it has twice had to fight for independence from Russia, leaving marks on the architecture and culture of Estonia. Whilst the city is best known for its medieval old town, it’s also a vibrant and lively European capital with thriving universities and tech industries. It’s a city that has preserved and respects its past but is very much looking to its future.

What to do in Tallinn’s old town

Tallinn’s old town has to be one of the most underrated in Europe (and that’s not a statement I make lightly). The architecture is beautiful and distinctively Baltic, the cobbled streets are picture-perfect, and there’s an abundance of viewpoints that feel like a gift that just keeps on giving.

It’s colourful, ancient, diverse and alive.

The old town is centred around the vast town hall square that’s surrounded first by a labyrinth of pretty, winding streets and passages, then by ancient stone walls peppered with towers, and finally by a sprinkling of leafy parks. There’s a lot to discover in this central part of town. Exploring the meandering streets will keep you happy for hours, but if the weather turns there’s the excellent Estonian History Museum inside the old Guild Hall. It’s worth a visit just to see the fascinating interior of the building, but it also shares an insightful and thought-provoking view of the struggles – and accomplishments – of the Estonian nation.

In places, you can go inside some of the many fortified towers and even walk along the top of the walls of the town – but I’ve another trick for getting great views over the rooftops.

My favourite part of the old town has to be Toompea Hill, which rises towards the north of the old town and is crowned by the spectacular cathedral – all onion domes and glittering gold details. It looked especially gorgeous dusted with snow. There are more colourful buildings to discover up here, but even better there are viewpoints around every corner. Each looks down over the rooftops and spires of different parts of the city, a bright and busy skyline that runs down to the crisp Baltic sea. Meander around Toompea at any time of day (it’s always a delight) but make sure you head up here at sunset for the real magic, when the sinking sun turns the city all the colours of the rainbow.

When night falls, it’s time to explore the excellent array of places to eat and drink in the old town. As with anywhere, it’s best to head away from the main square for more characterful venues (and in this case, less medieval fancy dress). I wholeheartedly recommend the offbeat Hell Hunt for drinks, pub grub and a great atmosphere. It’s a warm, cavernous bar that’s more like a small beer hall, with a huge range of interesting beers, bar snacks and strangely, herbal teas. They brew some of their own beers too – their Weissbier was particularly splendid.

Discovering Rotermanni (or the Roterman district)

Step outside Viru gate in the old town and you’re greeted by a cacophony of trams, buses and neon lights. This is one of Tallinn’s biggest junctions, but step beyond it and you’ll find one of its most upmarket districts.

A five minute walk takes you to the centre of Rotermanni and what was, until relatively recently, an area of dilapidated brick-built warehouses near to the port. In the last few years, the area has been sensitively redeveloped – keeping some of the old charm but mixing it up with contemporary architecture. It’s smart and hip without being pricey and intimidating, and I really liked it.

There’s not too much to see here but it’s nice to wander along the little passageways of shops, offices and restaurants, and pause for a coffee break. What it’s really good for though is eating.

Where to eat and drink in Rotermanni

Like pastries? Me too. In that case, Røst will be your new favourite place in Tallinn. It’s perfect for breakfast, lunch or coffee and I challenge you to resist sampling their cinnamon buns and the other baked treats that stream in from the open kitchen the moment they’re out of the oven.

I also loved Flamm, almost opposite. It’s dedicated entirely to the Alsatian dish of Flammenküchen, a cold weather treat that’s similar to pizza. Why Tallinn is the only city I’ve come across with a restaurant dedicated to this delightfulness is a mystery to me (I’ve only encountered it on Christmas markets before) but we had great fun eating our fill and then enjoying a drink in Brewdog next door.

Why you should explore Kalamaja, Balti Jaam and Telliskivi

Even if you’re only in Tallinn for a day, it’s well worth exploring beyond the old town – and I loved the area of Kalamaja and Balti Jaam that’s just a stone’s throw away.

Kalamaja is a residential district that’s packed with colourful, traditional-style wooden townhouses that give you a real feel for Estonian architecture. It’s also home to the fabulously named Balti Jaam station, the city’s discrete but central transport hub. A railway station alone isn’t enough to recommend a place though – it’s Balti Jaam Turg next door that is. This contemporary covered market is an absolute gem, opened in 2017 to replace a well-loved but dilapidated Soviet era market. As well as bringing some upmarket deli’s, cafes and street food stalls to Balti Jaam, it’s still home to the old stallholders and you’ll find everything and anything for sale here: from high quality meat and fresh Baltic seafood, to homegrown vegetables and your Estonian granny’s knitwear. It’s the perfect blend of old and new and pretty much summed up everything I loved about this city.

Just around the corner, past some colourful murals, is Depoo – a slightly more confusing market that’s part-traditional clothing market, part-upmarket vintage store and cafe (but if I’m honest it was a little hard to tell where one started and the other finished). It’s worth a nose around, but more importantly it’s a stepping stone to nearby Telleskivi.

I suppose you could call Telliskivi a creative centre, but I think it’s better described as a somewhat shabby warehouse district that’s slowly being overtaken by some seriously cool bars, restaurants and independent shops. It’s kind of an unpolished Rotermanni, and it’s got attitude. Explore the boutique shops and stop for a coffee by day, definitely come for dinner and drinks by night. But be warned, this is where Tallinn locals come, so you might have to fight for a table.

Where to eat and drink in Telliskivi

You won’t struggle to find good cafes, bars and restaurants in this part of town. We were only able to scratch the surface in a few days, but discovered a goldmine of food just waiting to be explored.

For lunch, Frenchy Bistro is a delight. Classic French cooking (with a few contemporary twists), a cosy retro French-inspired interior and good value for money proved to be an irresistible combination. The food was really very good, I recommend keeping an eye out for their plat du jour for exceptional value.

On an evening F-Hoone seems to be the place everyone in Tallinn is vying for a table at. If, like us, you optimistically rock up mid-week without a booking be prepared to wait a while at the bar, this place is seriously popular for good reason. Three divine courses of gastro-pub style food in their converted dining space – you’d be mad not to step out of the old town for an experience like this.

After eating our fill, we headed to nearby Pudel for after-dinner drinks. It’s a smart craft beer bar with a warm atmosphere and extensive beer menu.

Kadriorg and Pirata

Step outside of the city centre in the opposite direction and a mile or so down the road (or tramline) is Pirata, the city’s Baltic promenade. On a clear day you’ll be treated to glorious sea views and can stroll along the boardwalk that winds between the dunes. As we visited on a snow day, there erm, wasn’t actually anything to see apart from a complete white-out.

I’ve no doubt on a sunny day that Pirata is lovely, but it’s good to know it’s not just the promenade that locals head out here for. It runs along the northern edge of Kadriorg Park, an elegant expanse of lawns, avenues of trees, palaces and national monuments. It’s also home to the Song Festival grounds – a spiritual home to a huge part of Estonian culture and a literal turning point in the country’s history, which is worth a visit in its own right. You’ll also find the elegant Kadriorg palace – a colourful riot of old-fashioned splendour.

Whatever time of year you visit, I’d recommend spending a little time exploring the city’s green spaces. They’re quite enchanting, and rather magical if there’s been a dusting of snow.

Tallinn travel resources

How to get to Tallinn

Tallinn airport is well-served by budget airlines from across Europe. We flew with Easyjet from London. Once you’re at the terminal (which might just be the nicest I’ve ever travelled through), you’ll find the tram stop just outside the door. Tram number 4 takes you to the city centre and old town. Just knock on the driver’s window to buy a ticket on board.

How to get around Tallinn

Tallinn is a very walkable city, you’ll find you don’t need public transport much. The old town and more is fully pedestrianised. To explore further afield though, hop on one of the frequent and efficient trams.

Where to stay in Tallinn

There’s a huge range of accommodation options around the old town. Sadly the excellent hostel where we stayed is now closed, but we’d recommend this central location in order to enjoy having great sights and places to eat and drink on your doorstep.

Why you’ll love Tallinn

Tallinn is a city of joyful contrasts – medieval yet modern, cultured yet charmingly dishevelled in places. But most of all it feels authentic and alive, which makes it stand out from some of southern Europe’s fairytale fortified towns which are sometimes a little too close to becoming a pastiche of themselves.

The Estonian capital well and truly deserves to be recognised as one of Europe’s most delightful, and I’m already thinking about when to go back.*

*Only in part to quell my cinnamon bun addiction.

What another incentive to visit Tallinn? See a different side to the city in 8 magical reasons to visit Tallinn in the snow.