Twenty four hours in Toledo: A city guide

Less than an hour from the Spanish capital there’s a fortified town crying out to be explored. With winding cobbled streets, majestic churches, rugged countryside and authentic tapas, Toledo is perfect for an overnight stay. My 24 hour guide to Toledo will show you what to see and do, and most importantly, where to eat.

I love spring. Warmer days, brisk April showers, longer evenings, trees bursting forth into leaf and blossom dusting the pavements of my hometown. It’s a beauty to watch the transformation a little sunlight and warmth can bring.

Last year, we headed south to Spain for a few days just as spring sprung. The magnolias were in bloom, the trees lush with fresh new foliage and skies blue. It was the perfect antidote to the grey winter months we were just starting to leave behind.

We spent a couple of nights in Madrid before jumping on the train to medieval Toledo for our last two days. Baking in the spring sunshine beside the river and within the old stone walls, Toledo seemed glorious. Although we only spent twenty four hours in this little slice of Spanish history, I couldn’t have been happier that I picked this location for our last night.

If you’re looking to add something special to your stay in Madrid, may I suggest a trip to Toledo. Here’s my guide to exploring this captivating fortified town.

There’s no AI here! Every post on Travels with a Saddle Bag is written by myself and based on my own travels. This post was written in April 2017 and last updated in October 2024, based on my visit to Toledo in April 2016.

Introducing Toledo

Toledo is an ancient yet lively walled town situated in the region of Castilla-La Mancha in central Spain. It’s only half an hour from central Madrid by train, making it the perfect addition to a trip to the Spanish capital.

The railway station alone makes quite the architectural statement, with nods to the Moorish style buildings you’ll find within the town. But, situated a little way from both the newer town and historic walled centre, it feels quite an innocuous arrival. Follow the signs from the station and you’ll be wondering what the fuss is all about. There’s a main road and some modern buildings in the distance, but nothing to write home about. Suddenly the road bears round to the left and the old town, in all its glory, appears in front of you perched above the river on a rocky outcrop.

Getting into the old town means crossing an ancient fortified bridge, then trekking up a couple of narrow, stone walled alleys. There are easier ways to do it (look out for the extraordinary escalators criss-crossing the outer walls in places), but they’re not quite as fun. Eventually you’ll arrive in the centre of town, in the Plaza de Zocodover.

At this point in your journey, you’ll have to accept that Toledo – even out of season – is a popular tourist destination. Like us, lots of visitors to nearby Madrid head here for the day. We arrived at midday and were slightly dismayed to find that the square was packed full of school kids and chain restaurants that contradicted the fabulous entrance we’d experienced. But don’t let this put you off.

There’s bucketloads to do in Toledo, and it’s easy to escape the crowds when you know the right time of day to seek out the best things to do here.

My secret to falling in love with Toledo? Stay for the night! As the sun goes down, the crowds melt away and a new-old city emerges – atmospheric, alive with locals and full of quiet corners to enjoy a few drinks and tapas.

What to do in Toledo during the day

Head outside the city walls when the streets are packed, as you’ll find treasures beyond the walls that you won’t want to miss.

Take a walk along the river

From the Puente de Alcantara you can get down onto a waterside path that tracks around the old town. Follow it along the river and you’ll get a different perspective on the town – impressive views you just won’t find by road, and unexpected picnic spots and pretty houses aplenty.

Next, follow the path to the Puente de San Martin (a bridge that’s worth a visit in its own right for its panoramic views) and cross over, away from the old town. Take a left turn and head up the hill for a couple hundred metres. On your left you’ll see a signpost and path leading to the chapel of La Cabeza. From here, you can look across old Toledo from a completely different angle. It’s a great way to get a feel for where the largest, monumental buildings sit within the walls.

Take a walk back in time

Toledo began life as a Roman trading town, with strategic importance at the centre of the Iberian peninsula. It was a focal point for the many farming communities that surrounded it. The city’s pièce-de-resistance was a phenomenal arena or ‘circus’ that hosted sporting events and markets with crowds tens of thousands strong. Incredibly, substantial parts of this vast structure still remain, peppering a little park that’s sandwiched between the new and old town. They give clues to the vastness of the arena – as well as its impregnable construction.

What to do in Toledo on an evening

The early evening is the perfect time to stroll the city’s meandering streets. Pop your head inside cavernous churches, soak up the sun with a beer or two in a streetside cafe, and seek out hidden squares and courtyards tucked away within the old city walls.

Now is the best time to take in the monumental buildings of Toledo – the Alcazar, the Cathedral, the many churches – like the locals do, on an evening stroll. And with gift shops and tourist cafes shuttered up for the day, look out for signs of life that have remained unchanged for decades, even centuries. Hand-painted signs on the walls of town houses hint at the traditional industries and trades that have contributed to Toledo’s wealth and success over the years. Stop for a drink and enjoy delicious tapas whilst watching the world go by.

What to do in Toledo early in the morning

This little Spanish city is especially magical first thing in the morning when the streets are quiet. The sun gives Toledo and the surrounding hillsides and plains a glow you won’t see once it’s fully risen. Get up early and circumnavigate the city walls at first light, and enjoy the fresh air by the river. It’s a wonderful place to run, if that’s your thing. Or enjoy breakfast whilst watching the world go by from an old-fashioned cafe.

Where to eat and drink in Toledo

Toledo is a curious place. As it metamorphosises from day to night, the somewhat generic restaurants and eateries packed into the main square largely disappear. It makes finding food more of a challenge, but I like a challenge. Fortunately, Toledo doesn’t fall short and there’s plenty to find if you’re willing to explore.

Local markets

If cooking is your thing, head straight to Calle Coliseo (better earlier in the day than later) to scout out the traditional market that’s home to butchers, grocers, pescaderias and a handy supermarket. You won’t find better authentic ingredients in town, and it makes a good stop if you want to grab a few indulgent essentials for a picnic lunch or breakfast.

Tapas in Toledo

We enjoyed fabulous street food at Mercado de San Agustin just off Calle Silleria during our stay. This contemporary market has sadly since closed, a real shame as it offered some great eating options and a vibrant space to enjoy.

Thankfully our other favourite spot remains open as of 2024. We meandered our way through the warm streets looking for somewhere to quench our thirst in the late evening and happily stumbled across La Malquerida de la Trinidad on the corner of Calle Trinidad. Charmed by the cosy interior, we retreated inside to enjoy a few beers and some of the most delicious complementary tapas I’ve ever enjoyed – delicious mouthfuls of homemade tortilla and little pintxos.

Breakfast

Lastly, if there is one meal I love most in Spain, it’s breakfast. We popped to the charming La Papa next door to our hostel to fill our boots. The very reasonably priced ‘energetica’ breakfast left me comfortably full of pan con tomate, tostada and tortilla. Plus, their cafe con leche tasted as good as any I’d savoured in Madrid’s more upmarket coffee shops.

Toledo travel resources

How to get to Toledo

Regular buses and trains depart from central Madrid to Toledo throughout the day. I recommend the swift 45 minute rail service operated by Renfe from Madrid’s magnificent Atocha Station.

How to get around Toledo

Toledo is best explored on foot. The old town is compact and largely pedestrianised, and there are easy walking routes to other popular spots in the city. Escalators (yes, you heard right) operate on the steeper sides of the old city walls providing improved accessibility (there is a short but steep walk otherwise).

Where to stay in Toledo

I can’t recommend the hostel where we stayed enough. The Oasis Hostel Toledo is simple but perfect. The central location is fabulous, and our room was comfortable, beautifully presented and had two rather romantic french doors looking out onto the sleepy street below. Private ensuite rooms are surprisingly affordable. Oh, and the best bit? This view from the roof terrace.

The verdict

Toledo is worth a day of any traveller’s time, with its wealth of history, charming streets, sleepy cafes and panoramic views. But to see the real Toledo, you’ll want to time your trip right. Soak up the morning sun as the city slowly comes to life. Sip a cold beer and nibble tapas outside a bar as the sun sinks golden below the spires and rooftops of this ancient town. And step beyond the streets well-trodden to see signs of centuries of life in this atmospheric little place you’ll be glad you discovered.